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Girls' Daisy Top with Scallop Edging and Petal Neckline
by Julie ++++++, Crazy Cat Knitting
For Printer-friendly instructions click here
Yarn used: Mississippi 3 (sport weight cotton and acrylic)
Knitting Machine used: Brother 890 punchcard -- Any standard machine can make this pattern, but swatch for proper gauge.
Main Tension: 10
Gauge: 24.5 sts X 39 R = 4" Warning! This gauge is taken after the swatch is machine washed and dried thoroughly. Make sure you do this before measuring the swatch or you will be disappointed in your garment!
Sizes: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14
Instructions
Print the Garment Shaping directions for your desired size--- Please read cast-on and stitch pattern directions before proceding-- These instructions are only used to create the basic shape!
These use Japanese notation to direct you when to decrease, inrease,
etc. It is easy to read once you get used to it. For example:
110: - 3s 4 x 3 translates as:
"At row 110 decrease 3 stitches and then knit 4 rows straight. Repeat
these instructions three times in all."
Size 3 (Chest actual measurement-22") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 4 (Chest actual measurement-23") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 5 (Chest actual measurement-24") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 6 (Chest actual measurement-25") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 7 (Chest actual measurement-26.5") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 8 (Chest actual measurement-27.5") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 10 (Chest actual measurement-29") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 12 (Chest actual measurement-30.5") Sleeve, Back, Front
Size 14 (Chest actual measurement-32") Sleeve, Back, Front
Here are the instructions to make these sweaters special!
For all sizes:
Front Cast on--- Turn off or disregard row counter. Cast on with WY the
# of sts indicated on your pattern. Knit several rows, break yarn.
K one row of ravel cord at T10.
K 5 rows of main yarn at Main T (T10 for a Brother punchcard, or whatever makes the proper gauge on a different machine). Hang your hem by bringing the first row of stitches up to the needles with your trasfer tool and hanging them on the stitches directly above. If you end up with one fewer stitches than there are needles, hang the purl bar of one of the stiches on that extra needle. K 1 R.
To make scallop: Leave each end needle in B position. Push the next needle on each side out to hold position. Set your carriage to Hold.
Now figure out how many needles you have left between the two needles in hold. Add 1 to that number.
Your goal is to push one of every 9 or 10 needles into hold position. You may not have the exact number of needles divisible by 9 or 10, but figure out which one is closer to a match.
Lets say that you have 100 needles left. Add 1. That equals 101. Divide that number by 9 and you get 11.222. Divide that number by 10. You get 10.1. In this case, holding 1 needle every 10 needles would work best because the number you get is closer to a whole number when you divide by 10. So what do you do with that extra needle that will be left over? While you are putting needles out to hold, make a space of 11 needles for a scallop once instead of ten. That will use up the extra needle. Do not start pushing out needles in the middle over the work. Go from one side to the other, left to right or right to left. This makes it easier to fix a mistake
If somehow your figuring doesn't work quite right and you have only four needles ( or whatever small number) left over at one side instead of ten or nine---- push the old held needles into UWP. Recount and push needles to hold, alternating the 9/10 needles space with a 10/11 space until it evens out and gets rid of the extra needles left over. I hope this isn't too confusing. It's easier to do than to explain!
Your bed should look something like this:
X | XXXXXXXX |XXXXXXXX| etc.
The X indicates that the needle is NOT pushed out, the | indicates a needle pushed out to hold.
Okay-- now you have your needles in hold and carriage in hold (Don't forget that!) Place extra weight on your knitting and K8 R. At about the 5th or 6th row the yarn may start bunching up around the needles on hold and could cause those stitches to drop or not knit properly. To prevent this, *push the needles on each side of the Hold needles into UWP, making sure that the stitch is sitting properly on each of those needles. Steadily pull down on the middle of your knittting and knit another row.* Repeat *,* until you have knit 7 rows. For the 8th row, take your carriage off hold and Repeat *,* 1 time. Now all of your needles should be in WP.
K1 Row.
Beg. Stitch pattern
Start row counter at 000 and start garment as written until R5. *Take your transfer tool and move one stitch over to the right (or left, but always be consistent) from needle 0, 10, 20, 30, 40 etc. on both sides. This will make an eyelet. Make sure all needles are in WP. Knit 5 more rows. Now transfer one stitch from needle 5, 15, 25, 35 etc. on both sides. Make sure all needles are in WP.* Repeat this for the rest of the Front . Follow the garment directions as written for your selected size, decreasing at armhole with full fashioned decrease (Move the three end stitches in 1 stitch with your three prong transfer tool).
For this sweater I prefer not to cut and sew the neckline. To learn how to make a neckline using the hold position, consult your machine manual. Just be sure not to forget to make the eyelets every 5th row. Cast off shoulders by knitting a row of ravel cord and several rows of waste yarn. You will later kitchener stitch the shoulder seams together, making an invisible join.
To finish the neckline: After both shoulders have been cast off, knit one plain row across the stitches on hold-- this will make it easier to rehang the neckline for the petal edging. K 1R ravel cord, several rows waste yarn, then take it off the machine.
Back
Knit the back the same way you did the front, except don't make eyelets until you are15 Rows away from shaping the armholes. Then you make one row of eyelets at 0, 10, 20, 30 etc. needles, K5. Make eyelets at 5, 15, 25, 35 etc needles, K5. Make eyelets at 0, 10, 20, etc. and finish knitting the back according to your garment directions. Note-- You could also make the front this way for the little girls.
Sleeves
Cast on the correct # of needles using WY and ravel cord the way you did with the Front and Back. K5R and hang hem. Leave end needles alone and put next needle in on hold on each side. Place a needle on hold every 5 or 6 needles. Respace if necessary. Put carriage in hold position. Knit 4 rows. Take carriage out of hold position. K1 R.
Turn on Row Counter to 000 and start pattern as written until R5. *Take your transfer tool and move one stitch over to the right (or left, but always be consistent) from needle 0, 10, 20, 30, 40 etc. on both sides. This will make an eyelet. Make sure all needles are in WP. Knit 5 more rows. Now transfer one stitch from needle 5, 15, 25, 35 etc. on both sides. Make sure all needles are in WP.* Repeat this for the rest of the sleeve . Follow the pattern as written for your selected size, decreasing at armhole with full fashioned decrease (Move the three end stitches in 1 stitch with your three prong transfer tool). Cast off rem stitches across gate pegs and take off the machine.
Kitchener stitch one shoulder together before finishing the neckline.
Kitchener stitch is harder to explain than to do, but I'll try to give you an idea of what to do. Thread length of yarn through a tapestry needle or a double bed transfer tool ( a needle with a hole on each end) and tie a knot with the yarn at the neck side of the Front shoulder. Make sure that the right side of the sweater pieces are facing you. Draw the needle through the end stitch of the Front shoulder. Put the needle through the top of the end stitch and the second stitch of Back shoulder. Don't pull the yarn tight. Put the yarn through the top of the Front end stitch and the second stitch. Put the needle though the top of the second and third stitch of the Back. Put the needle through the second and third stitch of the Front. Continue this way across the shoulder. When all stitches have been sewn in this way, pull out the ravel cord and make sure the kitchener stitches match the sweater stitches. Tie off and weave in the end.
Neckline
Count the stitches you have on hold for the front and back neckline, then add 26 or 28 to that number. Final number =______. Push the final number of stitches into working position. Ewrap these stitches from left to right. Now, right side facing away from you, hang the neckline from left to right by putting each held stitch on a needle, with 13 or 14 stitches allowed for hanging the part of the neckline that doesn't have any held stitches. If 13 or 14 is too many, don't stretch the neckline out trying to fit it across them. Just don't use so many stitches for that part. Continue placing held stitches onto needles until you are finished, then un-ewrap any left-over needles. K2 R.
Place all but 5 or 6 stitches closest to the carriage on hold, and set carriage for hold. Again, divide the number of stitches you have by 5 or 6 and chose the one that comes closest to a whole number. If you have extra stitches, make a few petals with 1 fewer stitches if you chose the number 6, or 1 extra stitch if you chose 5.
*K6R. Cast off the 5 or 6 stitches across gate pegs, and place the rem stitch on the next needle. Take that needle out of hold, along with the next 4 or 5 needles. Pull up on the yarn.* Rep across entire neckline. You're done!
Finishing
Kitchener Stitch the other shoulder and sew the few neckline stitches together invisibly.
Create daisys on your sweater by using the daisy stitch around some of the eyelets. I made five across the back, 9 or 10 in the front, and 3 on each sleeve.
Sew the sleeves onto the sweater body. I sewed them by hand because I like that look, but it's really up to you. This is your sweater!
Sew the sides together. Weave in the loose ends. You're finished!